Lensbusters.com

  Here's an example of 45 20megapixel photos stitched together. ca: 88x40in @ 300ppi ca: 132x60 @ 200ppi ca: 260x120 @ 100ppi (~21x10 feet!) It's possible to stitch without distortion like that shown in my example. Also, FYI the camera is a tiny mirrorless camera (sony a5100) that was modified by removing the infra-red filter that covers the sensor.  It's hard to wrap your head around the process. Typically, you will be using a moderate telephoto lens for the process and can make a super-wide angle final pano. In this case, the lens was a 50mm on APS-c (75mm equivalent).

Recently I acquired an infrared converted camera. Somebody on Ebay converted a conventional Sony A5000 by simply removing the IR filter over the sensor. Unlike many professionally converted cameras, my IR camera does not have any IR filter over the sensor. So without a filter over the lens images don't look that different from a conventional camera. But I've been using a 720nm IR filter. To the eye the filter looks black. But through the camera you can see an image. And surprisingly the daylight exposures are very similar to conventional photography. One issue that is very much subjective about the use of digital infrared is how to process images. There's no way to be true to what you see, the IR world is magically different! For most of the IR work I've done so far, I've converted to grayscale. And unlike conventional photography, I'm ok with seriously moving those sliders around. Opening the shadows and pulling in the highlights to the extreme doesn't

If you look closely at many old lenses you'll see a red dot. No- your lens wasn't made in India and that is NOT a bindi, nor is it a manufacturing defect. The red dot is the adjustment for focusing with Infrared film. The red dot will be found on many lenses from the film era. If your lens does have this feature it will be found on the hyperfocal DOF scale, slightly to the left of the center line. So if you were using infrared sensitive film, you'd focus normally, then move the focusing measure to match the red dot. Humans and normal film cannot see infrared light, so we can't focus correctly. Now you know!

Recently I added a Infra-Red converted camera to my stable of digital cameras. There's been a surprisingly steep learning curve. The camera was an amateur conversion - some guy on Ebay did his own conversion by simply (I'm sure it's not that simple really) removing the IR filter. As I am using Sony mirrorless cameras, I thought it'd be cool to have a tiny little IR body to play around with. In this case it's a Sony a5000. Without any filter in front of the lens, this camera creates unremarkable results. In fact, image quality suffers without much notable difference in the visible image. However, if you put a filter on the lens that limits visible light and lets IR pass through the results can be very dramagic. There are some ways to make for interesting color images, but thus far my favorite use of this technique is black and white. I'm fairly new to Capture One and try avoid Adobe products when I can. So I thought I'd share some of the conversion tech